Friday, May 11, 2007

Cat Island and the Hermitage


We left George Town and in one day sail arrived at Cat Island. Last year the blog had an extensive tour and much talk-talk about the Hermitage. It won't be repeated now, but we will tell you that the Hermitage is still spectacular. A path behind the building leads to this cave. Although it was good enough to be Father Jerome's home while the hermitage was under construction, its 4 foot entrance and dark, low interior did not entice us to exploration.

Hey Cecca Becca


Hey Cecca and Becca. Where are you? We miss you and the boat seems so big and empty without you.

Uniform Concerns


But, feline lovers ask, "Why do Bahamian police wear leopard skins?"

Marching Music


The music was wonderful and the band played in front of shimmering blue water and under the Bahamian flag.

Leading the Pack


They had elegance and style.

The Parade


After the races were over, the action moved to a small park. People stood around in the hot sun while a high school band and drum corp entertained. Then a bus rolled in, the crowd pushed in to the park, and things got quiet as the Royal Bahamian Police Band marched in.

Shore Celebrations



Not all the Regatta fun was on the water. Small shacks sold favorite Bahamian food and drink: Rum, coconut water and gin, Kalik beer, pigeon peas and rice, conch fritters, and sheep tongue souse (stew). Everyone dressed up.

Great Races



Giving up our shore seats, on the last day of the races we took the dingy well off the first mark. The beautiful boats came at us, rounded the mark, and flew away. We saw near collisions and quick maneuvers. Race veterans scoffed at our enthusiasm and yearned for the frenzy and aggression seen in previous years. They told us about boats crashing into each other and crew in full fledged warfare with hand to hand combat and beer bottle assault missiles. To each his own.

Competition


Shooting through the anchorage and crowding up on the mark from all directions, racers enjoy some risk too.

The Race


Winners at the Regatta win big cash prizes and enormous prestige, adding fuel to the intense competition. Feckless cruisers are warned to stay out of the way or get run over. Fools who anchor on the marks or within the course are fair game for trouble.

Crew


Each boat is packed with crew to manage the boat and provide ballast.

Family Island Regatta


Travelling through the islands, we saw traditional Bahamian boats being built off the side of the road, in the weeds next to a house, and in small boat yards. They are impressive in their cradles but attain the rank of glorious under sail.

Monday, April 30, 2007

Plenty of room


Fortunately, we had room enough since Cecca and Becca adapted to life on a moving house that changes neighborhoods several times a day and can be quite boisterous at night. They also fit well in the 33 foot boat, four people sharing life in an area smaller than their bathroom at home.

Beach swing


After several days cruising the islands, we returned to George Town and the land of civilization. Cecca and Becca found that in addition to swimming, hiking, iron shore scrambling, and beach combing there were some quiet pleasures.

Together on the beach


It was wonderful to have all these lovely places to ourselves, but difficult to get a group photo. Fortunately, we have an engineer aboard.

No No No


Returning to George Town we passed signs of human habitation. Obviously, the owners of this island take their rights of occupation as seriously as their their belief in the total depravity of the general public. Simple language, repetition and the threat of three bad dogs should keep even sail boat bums away.

Jungle Exploration



Ever the intrepid explorers, Cecca and Becca waded up jungle streams to search for the source of the Nile.

Lizard Sports


Although we did not find any people, there were other inhabitants to share the sand. Sometimes they were willing to participate in games and informal competitions. Although we could not get enough players for regulation volleyball, this iguana on Leaf Cay played catch me with Cecca and Becca, but only once.

Quiet beaches


As we traveled through the islands, Cecca and Becca found themselves the sole owners of uninhabited islands and empty anchorages.

Meet the neighbors



On our first morning at Lee Stocking Island we met Patti and Scott who camped on a nearby beach during the night. For 10 days they have been kayaking through the islands. Now on their last day they were heading for hot showers, real bathrooms, and a restaurant. Their last dinner of a macaroni and cheese mix with a summer sausage appeared to be a factor in their enthusiasm for the spoils of civilization. We were able to lure them aboard for lunch and had a wonderful time together. They were are only human contact and a high light of the trip.