Tuesday, September 02, 2008

So, you want to build a Home in Nova Scotia 2

Follow the river and find the perfect location nestled in the woods.
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So, you want to build a Home in Nova Scotia 1

Find a small beautiful river, with steep rock cliffs and trees all around.
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Midnight Madness

It had been a good day. We made dinner, read, and entered the warm comfort of bed. Just as we were heading into deep sleep around midnight, a funny gurgling noise got louder, and louder, and LOUDER. We got up on a floor that was slanting more uncomfortabley to the right by the minute. After an hour and a half the boat was leaning at a 45 degree angle and we were almost sitting on the wall. Here you see our curtain and necklace clinometers. They are measuring our degree of tilt before we reached our maximum angle of anxiety. When done purposefully to work on the bottom of a boat, this maneuver is called careening. In our case it is simply called a mistake.
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A Really Great Anchorage

We sailed up to Mahone Bay, a beautiful area full of islands and a few small towns. We had been incarcerated on board by rain for several days and were eager to walk. Near Chester we found a lovely anchorage between 2 small islands. We hiked all around one island, the only people on a beautiful beach.
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Arthur Dechman

Warren made arrangements for us to visit Arthur Dechman, so that we could have our own copy of his classic, Yachting Guide to the Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia, in its latest 3rd edition. Now in his 80's, Art Dechman is a well established legend in Nova Scotian sailing and this is an occasion to be remembered.
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Racing

At the end of their vacation, Liza and family dropped us back to the Yacht Club and we were just in time for the final races. We've heard about To Mater over the years and finally were there to see her sail off in competition. The race results were not available when we left, but To Mater and her crew were looking good.
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Beach Time

Some people gather rocks in their pockets, others throw rocks on the water, others just marvel at the water, the sky, and the rocks all together.

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Touring

Northern Nova Scotia feels like the top of the world, especially when you look over the headlands and down towards Cape Breton Island. At the light house on Cape George, the world spread out beneath us.
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And We're Off

We left the boat in the tender care of a mooring at the LaHave Yacht Club while Liza, Nat, Matt, Devin, and Lexie brought us up north to Antigonish to enjoy their vacation with them.
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Blue Rocks

Some of you may have been waiting for a typical Nova Scotia scene. Would a small fishing village perched on craggy rocks do? Warren brought us here to Blue Rocks for the postcard view. "We bring all the tourists here", he assured us.
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Warren and Diane

During the winter, Warren is found in the Bahamas on his fast and handsome sailboat NO JUSTICE. But, that is only half the year. Summers he returns to his home on the La Have River and we were very happy to find him there. He and his dear friend Diane gave us a tour including Lunenberg, the Fisheries Museum, and Diane's great cooking. We are living very well here.
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Mysterious world

Fog is at home on the LaHave river too. Heading up the river to the famous LaHave Yacht Club we were in a place both vague and beautiful.
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Mike and Chrissie

Finally, after years talking and not doing, we managed to bring the boat up to Riverport for a reunion with Mike and Chrissie. Before selling us the boat, Mike and Chrissie sailed Amante (Chinook) for 12 1/2 years in the Carribean and sold her to us in great shape. Although we only met them briefly, we've had reason to thanked them many times over the years. In Riverport Mike and Chrissie visited us, kindly noticing the work we've done while not mentioning that the bright work is sadly waiting for our care. They showed us some of the sights on the La Have River and we had dinner at their house. Although it is clear that they have built a good life on land, it is interesting that their home is almost on the water. The water table is so high that the well in their basement is only 8 feet deep. They may have left the sea, but they still need a bilge pump.
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LaHave Islands

From McNutt Island we wandered up the coast through small towns and uninhabited islands. Travel was slowed by storms and fog, but eventually we reached the La Have River.
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Welcome to Nova Scotia

Further down the path along the bay was a small house and a woman invited us in to Bump and Nanny's. The house, measuring 12 x 12 feet, included a wood burning stove, 3 small beds, and a sink. There was an out house in the yard and drinking water was jugged out to the island. Nanny told us that she and her husband Bump first set up this camp around 30 years ago. Their son in law had taken his new fishing boat on its first voyage when it lost its engine and went aground on the rocks near the lighthouse. He sawed off the pilot house, dragged it across the island, and the family built it into a cottage. Eventually the ants ate the pilot house and it was again dragged off and a new cottage was constructed, using some of the windows from the pilot house. Bump died about 11 years ago, but Nanny still goes out to stay in the camp. Now her children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren have camps further down the path. With its beautiful setting, simplicity, picket fence (to keep the goats from pooping on her steps), and small back deck, Bump and Nanny's has become our ideal of a lovely home in Nova Scotia.
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McNutt Island

We lost most of our brains somewhere in the fog and decided to spend our first day at rest, anchored off a small uninhabited island. The next day we went ashore early to explore. One of the first discoveries was this famous landmark, "The Largest Birch in Nova Scotia". We are in the land of excitement.
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Land of Light houses

By the morning of our third day, the fog had lifted and we were approaching Nova Scotia. While still off the coast, we were boarded by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, questioned, and searched. Even when the people digging in your closet are polite and pleasant, it is uncomfortable. Good news, we've been certified drug free and approved for Canadian waters.
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The murk

The cloud came closer and closer. As it swallowed us, the wind died and we were lost in a damp, drizzling fog. For the rest of the day and most of the night we took turns staring off into the darkness and listening intently for approaching boats. As the hours passed, we gained a greater appreciation for the benefits of radar.
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Steam roller

During the morning of our second day of travel, we saw a bright white cream roll cloud approaching on the horizon. We prepared for gusting winds.
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Work in progress

We were unable to find a Canadian courtesy flag before leaving the states. The long sail provided time to make this flag with hand appliqued maple leaves on both sides. Nova Scotia here we come.
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Is that a fire?

Early in the morning while leaving the harbour, we saw a column of smoke just in front of us. Closer investigation showed that there were whales spouting in the waters around us. In our excitement, most of our pictures were only of where whales had been.
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News from the harbor

Every trip to Cape Cod sends family members off to P Town to enjoy the land of quirky. Although we skipped the pilgrimage, we left for Nova Scotia from the P Town harbour due to weather problems. Like the town's inhabitants, P Town's ducks have dispensed with tradition. They keep their surf boards on a mooring.
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The party's over


After the reunion, most of the family gradually wandered off. The summer was growing old and it was time for us to head north. We owe big thanks to Meg for bringing the chaos and joy of the family reunion into her home. She had 27 people living with her, from the basement to the room above the garage. Everyone else was just there most of the time. Meg wined us and she dined us, but best of all she gave us a wonderful family reunion in Cape Cod. As we prepare to leave it already it seems very quiet and serene at Meg's place. In a six or eight months she may start to miss us.
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